Tag Archives: shaper

beach or mountains? both (and prairie, and desert, the city, and…)

Beach or mountains? Which do you prefer? Why?

Both! My wife Karen and I have spent years massaging our life to include time in both the mountains and the beach. While not exactly the yin and yang of geography, each provides different nourishment for our souls and bodies. Admittedly, Karen favors the mountains to some extent, myself the beach, but we both would hate to have to choose one or the other, and each of us could likely be happy in either. But why choose when you don’t have to. Our modified hobo existence allows for both! And just as importantly, we are blessed with a solid home base to return to when we just need to settle in, and be able to walk to our favorite coffee shop, do some baking or herbal magic for friends, and get to our yoga classes at the Y. Fortunate indeed

Holly, CO
Moab

design threads

Those who have actually followed my shapes over the years may have noticed that the models that emerged from my rather selfish desire to shape the perfect boards for myself, have not been stagnant. They have evolved, along with my sensibilities, abilities, and knowledge of surfing and board design.

Extreme ends of the spectrum.

To be fair, no two hand shaped surfboards are ever identical. Even machine shapes vary depending on the final hand sanding and tuning. Even the unsung heroes at the factories (laminators, gloss and hot coat guys, sanders, fin guys, polishers) help determine the final result, each in their own way. Another factor for me though, it is my inability to shape as accurately as more experienced hand shapers. I am not one to rely on exact measurements of every aspect of the board. What consistency I achieve is sole a product of my doing each step of the shaping process the same each time. It’s an intuitive method that turns out shapes like mine because that’s just how I do it, each and every time. Often the process and what I see in front of me takes over, and in an effort to keep everything flowing and harmonious, goals and final results necessarily shift. I feel that far from being a bad thing, this reality allows for the opportunity to feel differences and learn from them, adding to the growing library of cause and effect in my mind.

Here is an example of this process at work. I was able to pull a template off an extraordinary board that I had the good fortune to come across. For my first shape that I did for a friend from this template, I tried to match the original ‘70s shape, with as good of results as I could muster at the time. It worked very well indeed, and he still has it today, close to twenty years later. The second one, I made for myself, and I foiled out nose and tail a lot, carved deep bottom contours and really knifey rails. I surfed it to death. It was wide, but the fineness of the rails and foil made it extremely sensitive (which I like), while still planing nicely. I don’t want to say my surfing is tentative, but I am certainly no power surfer, so it suited me fairly well. The third one, again for a friend, I split the difference, and it ended up the best of the three, easy and fast. It had no element that stuck out as extreme (to me anyway), and it just worked nicely in a variety of conditions. Experiments like these are excellent learning opportunities, and I try to do them whenever I can afford to.

One of the great benefits of hand shaping, is the flexibility it allows. Adjustments can be made, board by board, to improve (hopefully) any design, and back up on things that may not work out as hoped.

All of this gets me back to the point of this article. My model designations must be looked upon as an indication of the general feel and utility that one can expect from any particular model. They may vary slightly from shape to shape, but they typically retain a particular feel and purpose.

So please keep in mind that if you have a board of mine from ten or twenty years ago and want to recreate it, I am happy to give it my best shot. I will be able to give you the same vibe, but it would be a very lucky day indeed that I could produce the exact same shape. If all of this sounds like me making excuses, that’s because I am. Whether it is a good excuse or not, I leave up to you.

Holly’s 9’0″

In the works is a new birthday board for Holly. I shaped a refined, slightly piggish nose rider for her and then delivered it into the hands of Sam Cody. He occupies a space up on the hill in the former Channin factory, currently Bing and Jacobs. Sam is truly a master of the craft and art of surfboard color. Whether resin or paint, Sam’s bag of tricks is bursting at the seams.

Here is what he has done for Holly’s nose rider. Remember this board is foam.

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Another one bites the dust!

Well I’m back in Kentucky and looking forward to seeing my boards from this past trip completed by the uncommonly skilled craftsmen at Channin Precision Fiberglassing. It’s such a pleasure and honor to have my boards built by the crew there.

Boards for this trip include

7’0″ morning of the earth type single fin diamond tail, eggplant tint, yellow glass on and pins for Joe (thanks very much Joe)

8’4″ HPH double red cedar stringers, volan, beautiful deco keels made by Rick at Mitsven for Takashi (arigato!)

two 9’6″ gliders. One for Jay at slidermag.com, grey tint, and one for Paula, lovely deep turquoise (thanks to both of you)

11’1″ glider, triple red cedar stringer, purple tint for Takashi (domo arigato)

Hopefully I’ll get some photos before they all go away.

Come and get ’em!

Chris in his boutique
Chris in his boutique

Boards are now available from Chris at Surfindian in Pacific Beach. Check their new webstore for all kinds of goodies. Tell Chris you saw it here and receive a big free howdy-do.

Last year my boards were featured, along with Sam Cody’s artwork at Chris’ second ever show. Chris has been a great friend and consultant on all things to do with surf craft.

New stash on the way

Well these babies are now in the capable hands of the craftsmen at Channin, up on the hill in Encinitas. On the list are a 9’11” Pig made from a 1954 Velzy/Jacobs template, generously provided by “the genius”, a 9’1″ EDB for a friend in San Francisco, a 7’3 1/2″ hull, a 6’8″ arc tail downrailer, and a 7’7″ Cali fun gun for the same client who ordered the pig. there will be a variety of bells and whistles including but not limited to resin tints, resin panels and comp bands, wooden fins by Willy/Bahne and more. They will all be on view at this years Sacred Craft show, Oct. 10th and 11th.

Hope to see you there.