Double barrel

Look carefully (these are phone pictures, sorry) and you will see guys getting covered up on both sides of this peak. All of this of course is gone for now with Ida having come through. Actually, in the words of a nice local bookseller, “it hasn’t disappeared, it’s just not on your property any longer.” They don’t say erosion here. The word is “migration”.

It’s surreal!

Another stupid fun session. This time right out front of our cottage in Avon. Saw this peak this morning at high tide and figured I’d wait for low. SCOOOOOORE! as the soccer guys say. After years of San Diego crowds it’s hard to fully wrap your brain around miles of beaches with nobody on them.

I paddled out and caught a couple before one local guy pulled up in his truck (you can drive along the beach here) watched a wave and paddled out. Frankly I was glad for the company. People seem to be a little sketched about dusk in the water here, although no one says the S word. Shoulder to head high, water high 60’s, air 50’s. Like I’d died and gone to heaven. Definitely heavier than the reef breaks I so love in San Diego.

ocracoke island

Spent a day on Ocracoke and could stay for a lifetime. After a decade plus in Southern California it’s beyond comprehension to be on a beach alone. I mean really alone. There might be a dozen people spread put over as many miles. Unreal. Hurricane swells must be unbelievable on this South facing beach. Note to self: be there for some.

what a difference a day makes

Still victory at sea around Avon. The wind came up overnight and turned a couple points east, so now even around the cape has a serious drift and a lot more texture (bigger too). Ask any surf shop owner what it’s looking like in the near future and they don’t look at swell models. They look at NOAA wind models.

Tomorrow is looking promising with the wind turning West, maybe NW, maybe SW. Full moon tonight and already cleaning up out front.

Kentucky by the Sea

Frisco Pier. People were out in full winter suits. Air temp 60*, water 73*. I thought it was gonna be cold! People were talking about how it’s gotten cold It felt practically tropical. San Diego was like 67 when I left last and people were stoked it was still so warm. Maybe six guys in the water, decent vibe. Shoulder to head high lefts and occasional rights. I’ve never scored so early and easily while travelling before.