It’s surreal!

Another stupid fun session. This time right out front of our cottage in Avon. Saw this peak this morning at high tide and figured I’d wait for low. SCOOOOOORE! as the soccer guys say. After years of San Diego crowds it’s hard to fully wrap your brain around miles of beaches with nobody on them.

I paddled out and caught a couple before one local guy pulled up in his truck (you can drive along the beach here) watched a wave and paddled out. Frankly I was glad for the company. People seem to be a little sketched about dusk in the water here, although no one says the S word. Shoulder to head high, water high 60’s, air 50’s. Like I’d died and gone to heaven. Definitely heavier than the reef breaks I so love in San Diego.

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