first stock board in a while; 7’2″ hillbilly hull, us blanks green density. Holler at me or see it at birD’s when it’s built.
This past week I had the privilege of witnessing some of the best craftsmen in the surfboard industry practice their skills up on “the hill”. I feel very fortunate to get a glimpse into this world that is completely invisible to most. One of these craftsmen was Sam Cody. A veteran color guy, both resin and airbrush, Sam has worked for some of the greatest labels in surfing.
I completed a shape that a good client of mine requested and was very stoked that he decided to splurge for one of Sam’s “falsa” jobs. Not even remotely cheap, but you have to see one to believe it. Seriously, he recently did some falsa stringers in a board for Jim Phillips that even the veteran sander at Bing didn’t recognise for a good portion of the job, and this is a guys that knows! Here is the man at work and just a taste of the beginning of the project.
Sam not only makes it look like a traditional balsa glue up, but on this particular board, he decided on making it look like high quality, carefully chosen lumber. His skill and attention to detail is unsurpassed and often underappreciated.
I’m very sad today. I got a call from an old friend informing me that Larry Gordon had passed on New Years day. I had the great honor and privilege to surf with Larry on a regular basis over the years. When I was just learning to surf, Larry was there, usually with a smile and quiet word of tolerance, if not encouragement. When I was learning to shape, Larry was there, with a smile and a quiet word of tolerance, and encouragement. When I would show up at Tourmaline with a fresh board, still in plastic, to deliver, his sole piece of advice was “more color!”. I’ve heeded that advice, along with every other nugget of wisdom he was so generous to pass along. So the next time I show up with a board to deliver, I will probably hear the echo of “more color!” and head out to pumphouse and catch more waves than I deserve, because I used to sit next to Larry, and nobody new that place like he did, and I paid attention.
“There can be no more wild and exhilarating experience…it is a completely physical pleasure. One could yell with joy like a child.”
-Baron Max Von Aufess
I was reminded Wednesday, why a keep a hull in the bus, even though I surf in San Diego. I got to Tourmaline kind of late (9:30 a.m.). There was no swell called. The line up was textured and uncrowded. The sets were, however, coming in about waist high and although sectiony, ran on through to the inside. I pulled out my 6’7″ HPH, mid Simmons for my nephew, and my 7’3″ Malibu/SD hull for myself.
The feeling of carving down the line and cutting back with your feet about ten inches apart is nothing short of sublime. Lean it over, and it turns. Bury the rail, and it flows on through. It’s like that favorite 70’s slalom board, no kicktail, just carving. It makes all the other days of moving it around and out of the way in the bus totally worthwhile.
7’2 1/2″ volan, sage tint, g&p
NOW AVAILABLE AT BIRD’s SURF SHED
Having a nice trip to sunny San Diego. Got two boards under my belt so far. 7’2 1/2″ Malibu/SD hull in grey/green tinted volan, and a 7’1 1/2″ alien baby (egg/pintail hybrid) in chartreuse tint. Both will end up at Bird’s. Shaping an order tomorrow for Bryan and down to Avalon for Sunday/Monday to round out the trip.
Nice session this morning at Swami’s with an old pirate friend of mine, Jacek. Small, mushy, clean, perfect.
Well, another trip is on the books and after a nice trip to the high desert and a day at Avalon Tattoo hurting people, I finally had time to do three stock boards. They’re going through right now up on the hill at Bing.
7’2″ Malibu/SD hull, 6 oz volan, single box, sanded gloss
7’9 1/2″ hillbilly hull, rnd squash, blue grey tint, single box, gloss and polish
9’0″ EDB, rnd squash, burnt orange tint, single box, gloss and polish