I was reminded Wednesday, why a keep a hull in the bus, even though I surf in San Diego. I got to Tourmaline kind of late (9:30 a.m.). There was no swell called. The line up was textured and uncrowded. The sets were, however, coming in about waist high and although sectiony, ran on through to the inside. I pulled out my 6’7″ HPH, mid Simmons for my nephew, and my 7’3″ Malibu/SD hull for myself.
The feeling of carving down the line and cutting back with your feet about ten inches apart is nothing short of sublime. Lean it over, and it turns. Bury the rail, and it flows on through. It’s like that favorite 70’s slalom board, no kicktail, just carving. It makes all the other days of moving it around and out of the way in the bus totally worthwhile.
7’2 1/2″ volan, sage tint, g&p
NOW AVAILABLE AT BIRD’s SURF SHED
Having a nice trip to sunny San Diego. Got two boards under my belt so far. 7’2 1/2″ Malibu/SD hull in grey/green tinted volan, and a 7’1 1/2″ alien baby (egg/pintail hybrid) in chartreuse tint. Both will end up at Bird’s. Shaping an order tomorrow for Bryan and down to Avalon for Sunday/Monday to round out the trip.
Nice session this morning at Swami’s with an old pirate friend of mine, Jacek. Small, mushy, clean, perfect.
Well, another trip is on the books and after a nice trip to the high desert and a day at Avalon Tattoo hurting people, I finally had time to do three stock boards. They’re going through right now up on the hill at Bing.
7’2″ Malibu/SD hull, 6 oz volan, single box, sanded gloss
7’9 1/2″ hillbilly hull, rnd squash, blue grey tint, single box, gloss and polish
9’0″ EDB, rnd squash, burnt orange tint, single box, gloss and polish
Changes are inevitable and usually hard, but they are also a new beginning. New things are on the way. Please stay tuned. I’ll update as things settle out.
Heading out tomorrow to do some boards for Greg Surf Co. Osaka, and Surfindian, Pacific Beach, San Diego, and do some tattooing at Avalon Tattoo in beautiful Pacific Beach. Of course I’m planning on getting wet every morning before work. See you in the line up.