I was reminded Wednesday, why a keep a hull in the bus, even though I surf in San Diego. I got to Tourmaline kind of late (9:30 a.m.). There was no swell called. The line up was textured and uncrowded. The sets were, however, coming in about waist high and although sectiony, ran on through to the inside. I pulled out my 6’7″ HPH, mid Simmons for my nephew, and my 7’3″ Malibu/SD hull for myself.
The feeling of carving down the line and cutting back with your feet about ten inches apart is nothing short of sublime. Lean it over, and it turns. Bury the rail, and it flows on through. It’s like that favorite 70’s slalom board, no kicktail, just carving. It makes all the other days of moving it around and out of the way in the bus totally worthwhile.
7’2 1/2″ volan, sage tint, g&p
NOW AVAILABLE AT BIRD’s SURF SHED
So last week I get a carving board from Original Skateboards. The thing is so different from any skateboard I’ve ever had, starting with clay wheels in the early 70’s, that I hesitate to even call it a skateboard. Turns like no other. I’ve been skating around the neighborhood, getting the feel of it. It feels good to be skating around just for the fun of it again.
Anyway, I’ve gotten two memorable compliments.
“You are the coolest old man I’ve ever seen!” yelled from a window of a passing car by a cute girl.
My first thought was “right on!” then,……. OLD MAN?
A couple days later… “I’ve never seen an old man, on a skateboard, with that many tattoos… cool…. right on… you’re a legend!” yelled by a young man as I skated past on the Newport flood wall. Once again, cool, then,….. OLD MAN?
Well I’m just not sure what to think,… but I’m still gonna go skate today.