pattern recognition…or why I miss Mac

IMG_1001

Back when I first started surfing, I found myself at Tourmaline Canyon in San Diego. One of the first people to actually talk to me was Black Mac. Those who knew Mac would not find this surprising, but that’s another story. Well, I became friends with Mac and shared many great surf sessions with him over the years before his passing. One of the things I remember, and use every time I surf, was Mac’s knowledge of the ocean, swells in particular. Sitting in the line up, Mac would often expound on the mix of swells on any given day and impart the ability to differentiate one form another within the mix. More than once, when a big south was called, but wasn’t really showing at the beach, Mac would point to the horizon and sure enough, you could see the waves marching past on their trip to more northern landfalls.

Today as I sat in the lineup, I noticed a pattern amid the windswell slop and decided to paddle a bit farther out, over a bit of structure, and wait for an occasional set that seemed to be a little taste of the south that is filling in tomorrow. Within a few minutes, I was on a nice left, larger than average for today, rollercoastering around a few sections, and thinking of my old friend Mac. Miss you buddy.

being back 2

It’s not easy to describe the satisfaction, the feeling of community at your local break to friends and family that have never experienced anything quite like it. It is one of the great priveledges and pleasures of life.  

 

Stevie, Tourmaline Canyon, taking a moment. On his way to the Point. 

being back

Feels great to be back in the shaping room. Finished this EDB up for Kevin yesterday.  

  

Doing another today that’s headed to Mission Surf when it’s finished by the amazing craftsmen at Bing and Jacobs.  

Thanks to all the folks that make this possible for me.

I’m going to be in the area for the foreseeable future, making occasional trips back to the homestead. 

freshies

just dropped at birD’s surf shed, 8’5″ EDB garbage picker, and 7’3″ hillbilly hull turbo. Both of these boards were designed with the Cliffs in mind, but will work in a variety of waves. Both feature beautiful tints and “Southbay” panels/rails, the 8’5″‘s rails are fully glossed but finished in satin, the 7’3″ is fully polished.

8'5" EDB garbage picker!
8’5″ EDB garbage picker!
8'5" garbage picker!
8’5″ garbage picker!
7'3" hillbilly hull
7’3″ hillbilly hull
7'3" hillbilly hull
7’3″ hillbilly hull

introducing the 8’5″ EDB “garbage picker”

this is a new EDB variant that I shaped with Sunset Cliffs in mind, particularly North Garbage. Consider the paddle out to the line up. It sure is nice to have something that glides. Once you’re out though, it’s nice to be on something other than a log to take advantage of the quality of the surf. And remember the feeling of hearing “OUTSIDE” and knowing that you have to cover some ground, FAST. I feel this is the perfect combination of traits for the Cliffs. I could envision catching anything from knee high inside sliders in the summer, to outside double overhead bombers on this thing. Can’t wait to try it out. Available soon at Bird’s.

8'5" garbage picker IMG_1689

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