So stoked to be back at the factory after several weeks away. In the shaping room, I’ve got four different blanks, all favorites. Hmmmm, what is the flavor of the day. I love dilemas like this one.
Back when I first started surfing, I found myself at Tourmaline Canyon in San Diego. One of the first people to actually talk to me was Black Mac. Those who knew Mac would not find this surprising, but that’s another story. Well, I became friends with Mac and shared many great surf sessions with him over the years before his passing. One of the things I remember, and use every time I surf, was Mac’s knowledge of the ocean, swells in particular. Sitting in the line up, Mac would often expound on the mix of swells on any given day and impart the ability to differentiate one form another within the mix. More than once, when a big south was called, but wasn’t really showing at the beach, Mac would point to the horizon and sure enough, you could see the waves marching past on their trip to more northern landfalls.
Today as I sat in the lineup, I noticed a pattern amid the windswell slop and decided to paddle a bit farther out, over a bit of structure, and wait for an occasional set that seemed to be a little taste of the south that is filling in tomorrow. Within a few minutes, I was on a nice left, larger than average for today, rollercoastering around a few sections, and thinking of my old friend Mac. Miss you buddy.
Feels great to be back in the shaping room. Finished this EDB up for Kevin yesterday.
Thanks to all the folks that make this possible for me.
I’m going to be in the area for the foreseeable future, making occasional trips back to the homestead.
just dropped at birD’s surf shed, 8’5″ EDB garbage picker, and 7’3″ hillbilly hull turbo. Both of these boards were designed with the Cliffs in mind, but will work in a variety of waves. Both feature beautiful tints and “Southbay” panels/rails, the 8’5″‘s rails are fully glossed but finished in satin, the 7’3″ is fully polished.
this is a new EDB variant that I shaped with Sunset Cliffs in mind, particularly North Garbage. Consider the paddle out to the line up. It sure is nice to have something that glides. Once you’re out though, it’s nice to be on something other than a log to take advantage of the quality of the surf. And remember the feeling of hearing “OUTSIDE” and knowing that you have to cover some ground, FAST. I feel this is the perfect combination of traits for the Cliffs. I could envision catching anything from knee high inside sliders in the summer, to outside double overhead bombers on this thing. Can’t wait to try it out. Available soon at Bird’s.
Printing a new series of block print tee’s. Each shirt is hand printed, one at a time, one of a kind, on quality 100% cotton tees. All blocks are cut by me and printed by myself and my lovely wife Karen. If you’d like one for Christmas, hit me up and I can send images of what I have available. $30 to your door (in the US).