Wish I had one of these again, but here in Cincinnati for East Coast trips. Room for everything and then some.
I shaped this board in ’04 along with a batch of three others. The color struck me so I kept it for myself (product developement and all). It soon became a favorite. I surfed the largest waves of my life on it. The most fun, however, were the days at Tourmaline when it was about waist high, and I’d sit with IRS Dave and Larry and pick off waves that most people thought you needed a long board for. So glidey. I caught SanO this past June and the day was just about perfect. Overhead on the outside with a nice south push at low tide. Sittin’ with a bunch of guys bitchin’ about there ten footers not being long enough. I had a great time on my 7’11”. It ain’t the size of your stick, it’s the amount of trim you get with it. Get it?
One of the earlier hillbilly hulls, shaped in 2004. I had shaped three boards from a 70s Frye egg that all surfed well but had too much tail width for anything approaching overhead. So I pulled in the tail and gave it more of a thinman nose and contoured the bottom with what is now my standard hillbilly hull bottom; belly-concave-double concave. There’s a lot of edge at the tail for release and a very flat rocker, especially down the center. This is easily the fasted board I’ve ever had and works from knee high Tourmaline to double overhead Cliffs.
My beloved beast of a ride for a while. I have to say I’m much happier with my “68 VW bus. Smaller truck, smaller headaches. Room for a few boards and my tired body to lay down. It’s really all I need.