Category Archives: history

Mahalo Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre

Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre Christmas Party

I would like to extend my gratitude to my friend Kai for his invitation to join the Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre for their Christmas party. The event was held at the Surfing Heritage Foundation and was a nice family style get together. Great company, good food and music and a warm holiday vibe.

with Paul Strauch Jr.

I had the honor and pleasure of meeting Paul Strauch Jr. there. Surrounded by all of the historic boards there and then talking to Paul about them, I could not help feeling the flow of surf history, past to present. Quite a treat.

Another one bites the dust!

Well I’m back in Kentucky and looking forward to seeing my boards from this past trip completed by the uncommonly skilled craftsmen at Channin Precision Fiberglassing. It’s such a pleasure and honor to have my boards built by the crew there.

Boards for this trip include

7’0″ morning of the earth type single fin diamond tail, eggplant tint, yellow glass on and pins for Joe (thanks very much Joe)

8’4″ HPH double red cedar stringers, volan, beautiful deco keels made by Rick at Mitsven for Takashi (arigato!)

two 9’6″ gliders. One for Jay at slidermag.com, grey tint, and one for Paula, lovely deep turquoise (thanks to both of you)

11’1″ glider, triple red cedar stringer, purple tint for Takashi (domo arigato)

Hopefully I’ll get some photos before they all go away.

It’s surreal!

Another stupid fun session. This time right out front of our cottage in Avon. Saw this peak this morning at high tide and figured I’d wait for low. SCOOOOOORE! as the soccer guys say. After years of San Diego crowds it’s hard to fully wrap your brain around miles of beaches with nobody on them.

I paddled out and caught a couple before one local guy pulled up in his truck (you can drive along the beach here) watched a wave and paddled out. Frankly I was glad for the company. People seem to be a little sketched about dusk in the water here, although no one says the S word. Shoulder to head high, water high 60’s, air 50’s. Like I’d died and gone to heaven. Definitely heavier than the reef breaks I so love in San Diego.

Kentucky by the Sea

Frisco Pier. People were out in full winter suits. Air temp 60*, water 73*. I thought it was gonna be cold! People were talking about how it’s gotten cold It felt practically tropical. San Diego was like 67 when I left last and people were stoked it was still so warm. Maybe six guys in the water, decent vibe. Shoulder to head high lefts and occasional rights. I’ve never scored so early and easily while travelling before.

hulls

hulls

I’ve been on a quest for the perfect hull for San Diego for several years. As a result I’ve reached some conclusions about various combinations of belly and concaves. Now I know a lot of people are going to holler about real hulls having no concave. Maybe they’re right and once you start putting concaves in it’s no longer a hull. I happen to call my variant the “hillbilly hull”. Under that general designation I have shaped a variety of planshapes and bottoms. Always staring with a nice roll in the nose. Malibu style dictates a somewhat flattish middle and tail and results in a very fun hull that you can read all about on Greg Liddle’s websight.

Now it gets interesting. When I’ve introduced a bit of concave to double concave towards the back, I’ve noticed more accelleration off the bottom and while kind of pumping down the line (not thruster style wiggling but more like weighting and unweighting a transition while pool skating). The more extreme the concaves the more bonzerish squirt there is. The boards still turn and drive from your front foot but are capable of surfing off the tail as well.

Now when the concave is started further forward again, you start losing the front foot driven goodness that is the hallmark of a good hull. You can still move forward and pump down the line but real cutbacks need a tail weighted bias. The plus side is a fast, glidey board that’s more in tune with the San Diego spots I frequent (Tourmaline, Cliffs, Pipes).

I used to call these boards little eggs, fried eggs, or little fried eggs depending on the combination of belly and concaves and I may go back to doing so. I have one of each and love them all equally depending on the day. If you spot me in the lot at Swami’s or Tourmaline, holler at me and you are welcome to test drive anything I have in the van.

Peace

Come and get ’em!

Chris in his boutique
Chris in his boutique

Boards are now available from Chris at Surfindian in Pacific Beach. Check their new webstore for all kinds of goodies. Tell Chris you saw it here and receive a big free howdy-do.

Last year my boards were featured, along with Sam Cody’s artwork at Chris’ second ever show. Chris has been a great friend and consultant on all things to do with surf craft.