All posts by steven

karen: bookkeeper extraordinaire, bar master, and certified herbalist steve: tattooist since 1989, board shaper since 2002

Hadji

One of my personal heroes, Hadji, turns 91 this summer. He’s a Tourmaline local and I asked him if I could shoot some photos of him getting ready for our session on the day before he turned 89. We had a great session that day and I seem to recall him surfing on his 90th as well. I hope to get the chance to enjoy a few sessions with him this summer as well. It’s an honor to count him among my friends.

I remember, someone brought a monkey to the beach and, of course, it was the center of attention. A mutual friend was taking his turn bravely letting the monkey sit on his shoulder, when Hadji snuck up and dribbled warm rinse water onto the guys back. He jumped so fast, you’d have though a monkey was pissing on his back. We all fell out.

my personal 7’11” hillbilly hull

One of the earlier hillbilly hulls, shaped in 2004. I had shaped three boards from a 70s Frye egg that all surfed well but had too much tail width for anything approaching overhead. So I pulled in the tail and gave it more of a thinman nose and contoured the bottom with what is now my standard hillbilly hull bottom; belly-concave-double concave. There’s a lot of edge at the tail for release and a very flat rocker, especially down the center. This is easily the fasted board I’ve ever had and works from knee high Tourmaline to double overhead Cliffs.

new boards

Well the new HPH for Joe should be ready. I also did a hillbilly hull with a new twist. Instead of belly-single concave-double concave, I kept the concave single on through the tail. After riding my HPH i thought perhaps the single would hold more water for even more drive. It’s got a Fins 101 bamboo hull fin designed by John at Mitch’s North and will feature a pond scum green tint. Should be interesting.

I also still have a couple hillbilly hulls at The Pod Room. Check ‘em out next time you’re in Oceanside.