Tag Archives: surfboard shaper

Hullls

displacement or planing?

I see a lot of traffic on the net these days looking for hulls. I’m am by no means an expert on surfboard design, but I am an avid student of design and have researched a fair amount. Here is some of what I’ve learned.

Although the recent fascination with hulls has centered around the Greg Liddle “modified transitional displacement hulls”, any surfboard can be considered a hull. There are displacement hulls, planing hulls and as usually is the case, some variant of the two.

As soon as you put an edge at the tail of your board you have created a planing hull. The very nature of the release provided by that edge, by definition puts that board into planing mode. It the edge were left soft and round, you still have a displacement hull. Now whether it is a good one of either type is another matter.

Have you ever seen the old footage of guys towing behind motor boats on their logs? As soon as they get going, the tail end of the board starts submarining and they can literally walk to the nose and go. This demonstrates a the principle of displacement hull theory. A displacement hull has a theoretical hull speed, above which the water actually sucks the hull deeper into the water (I’m simplifying here). Take a sailboat or any other displacement hull and tow it. At anything above the theoretical hull speed, the boat begins to submarine, actually being pulled deeper into the water. Old, soft edged boards are the same, as are any true displacement hulls being produced today. As soon as you put an edge at the tail, you release the water and the board begins to plane. The modern surfboard, most “hulls” included, balance these principles to achieve the desired effect or feel.

Now I’m sure I’ll get some flak for this, but displacement hulls, by their very nature, are not as fast as planing hulls. They may “feel” faster in a section, but without the release, they are constantly dragging more than a sharp edged board would. Now this is not a bad thing. The feeling of a well balance hull is one of the great pleasures of surfing that most people fail to credit. Surfing one well takes a different approach, especially if you are stepping off a thruster. Single fin riders tend to have an easier time.

Another thing I’ll take flak for, and I’m saying it anyway, Greg Liddle did not invent the displacement hull surfboard. He refined it to an amazing degree, made it work in a short package, championing it when it was completely against the trends of the time, but have you ever seen a Weber Foil? Have you ever really looked at almost any board before the mid sixties? All displacement hulls, although arguably not “modified transitional displacement hulls”, whatever that means. Please don’t take this as me dissing Greg Liddle. On the contrary, I think his boards are brilliant and have been a huge design influence for me. It’s just I get a little frustrated when I here people talk about hull this and hull that, without any understanding of what a hull is.

Thanks

 

Spy Photo! Weapons of mast destruction.

Sources placed inside the factory have risked all to provide us with this sneak peak of a mast HPH in progress. Reported to be just beyond 8’2″, this sled will be watched carefully and new information will be posted when available. Resin engineer, Jorge, reportedly pulled out all stops.

I’m Coming East!

I’ll be bringing these two boards, plus my personal 7’3″ hillbilly hull East next week.

The mango one is a 6’10” hillbilly hull. This board is a blend of Liddle style Malibu hull with a bonzerish, Frye style mid to tail contour. Step forward and drive it like a hull, but step back and feel the drive and projection of a bonzer.

The gray one is a 5’8″ HPH/speedster. Based on the Bob Simmons/Lindsay Lord hydrodynamic planing hull concept, but foiled out and dialed in for speed.

I’ll be showing these to the friendly folks at Cinnamon Rainbows and Corduroy over the weekend so if you’d like to get a closer look, contact me and I’ll let you know where and when.

Thank You, Gracias, Arrigato!

Here’s an incomplete list of all the people who make it possible for me to be so spoiled:

The crew at Channin’s for making me look good

Randy Wong for the infusion of mana into my boards

Avalon Tattoo for giving me a place to work

Dana and Dot for giving me space

Jacek and Caroline for loaning me space

Jim Phillips for his generosity

Tra for the rides

All of my surfboard clients for allowing me to build your tools of joy

All of my tattoo clients for your trust

Every pilot that didn’t crash

Everyone at Tourmaline for sharing their waves

Swami’s Cafe for the acai bowls

Last but certainly not least, my beautiful wife who puts up with it all. I love you baby

“old man”

So last week I get a carving board from Original Skateboards. The thing is so different from any skateboard I’ve ever had, starting with clay wheels in the early 70’s, that I hesitate to even call it a skateboard. Turns like no other. I’ve been skating around the neighborhood, getting the feel of it. It feels good to be skating around just for the fun of it again.

Anyway, I’ve gotten two memorable compliments.

“You are the coolest old man I’ve ever seen!” yelled from a window of a passing car by a cute girl.

My first thought was “right on!” then,……. OLD MAN?

A couple days later…    “I’ve never seen an old man, on a skateboard, with that many tattoos… cool….  right on… you’re a legend!” yelled by a young man as I skated past on the Newport flood wall. Once again, cool, then,….. OLD MAN?

Well I’m just not sure what to think,… but I’m still gonna go skate today.