Click here for a “before” photo. A little better than a pot smoking skunk, I think, for our favorite truck driver.
Andre’s finished cover up!
Category Archives: photos
from the vaults
Frisco Pier Redux
Just reminiscing on a very nice little session in North Carolina last November.
Mahalo Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre
I would like to extend my gratitude to my friend Kai for his invitation to join the Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre for their Christmas party. The event was held at the Surfing Heritage Foundation and was a nice family style get together. Great company, good food and music and a warm holiday vibe.
I had the honor and pleasure of meeting Paul Strauch Jr. there. Surrounded by all of the historic boards there and then talking to Paul about them, I could not help feeling the flow of surf history, past to present. Quite a treat.
Back up on the hill
It’s good to be back in San Diego. Shaped a nice 9’6″ glider today for Jay at Slider magazine. Check out the link to the right. Hoping for surf in the morning.
UP ON THE HILL!
Can’t wait to get back in to the shaping bay at Channin’s. Looking forward to a couple nice weeks of work and surf.
Double barrel
Look carefully (these are phone pictures, sorry) and you will see guys getting covered up on both sides of this peak. All of this of course is gone for now with Ida having come through. Actually, in the words of a nice local bookseller, “it hasn’t disappeared, it’s just not on your property any longer.” They don’t say erosion here. The word is “migration”.
Another day in paradise
Look closely and you should see a surfer going each way off this peak. Last night it was me and one other guy. Today there were about eight guys on it. Tomorrow it may be gone.
It’s surreal!
Another stupid fun session. This time right out front of our cottage in Avon. Saw this peak this morning at high tide and figured I’d wait for low. SCOOOOOORE! as the soccer guys say. After years of San Diego crowds it’s hard to fully wrap your brain around miles of beaches with nobody on them.
I paddled out and caught a couple before one local guy pulled up in his truck (you can drive along the beach here) watched a wave and paddled out. Frankly I was glad for the company. People seem to be a little sketched about dusk in the water here, although no one says the S word. Shoulder to head high, water high 60’s, air 50’s. Like I’d died and gone to heaven. Definitely heavier than the reef breaks I so love in San Diego.
ocracoke island
Spent a day on Ocracoke and could stay for a lifetime. After a decade plus in Southern California it’s beyond comprehension to be on a beach alone. I mean really alone. There might be a dozen people spread put over as many miles. Unreal. Hurricane swells must be unbelievable on this South facing beach. Note to self: be there for some.
what a difference a day makes
Still victory at sea around Avon. The wind came up overnight and turned a couple points east, so now even around the cape has a serious drift and a lot more texture (bigger too). Ask any surf shop owner what it’s looking like in the near future and they don’t look at swell models. They look at NOAA wind models.
Tomorrow is looking promising with the wind turning West, maybe NW, maybe SW. Full moon tonight and already cleaning up out front.
mast surfboards 