In the works is a new birthday board for Holly. I shaped a refined, slightly piggish nose rider for her and then delivered it into the hands of Sam Cody. He occupies a space up on the hill in the former Channin factory, currently Bing and Jacobs. Sam is truly a master of the craft and art of surfboard color. Whether resin or paint, Sam’s bag of tricks is bursting at the seams.
Here is what he has done for Holly’s nose rider. Remember this board is foam.
One of the great pleasures on my life has been associating with a range of individuals that I have met at surf breaks. A particular group that were the core of culture at Tourmaline Canyon included Bud. He was one of a group encouraged to take up surfing again on later life by Skeeter Malcom. Captain Dan, Black Mac, Hadji, Billy,joe Gann among others. These guys were well into their 70’s and 80’s when I made Tourmaline my regular spot. They were a living treasure trove of surf lore, history, and practical knowledge. It was my great honor to have spent time with them.
Among other stories Bud told me were of him and his friends cutting the steps into the cliffs down by Garbage and Abs, and of learning to shape from Flippy Hoffman. He was generous with his stoke and his time. He will be missed.
I was reminded Wednesday, why a keep a hull in the bus, even though I surf in San Diego. I got to Tourmaline kind of late (9:30 a.m.). There was no swell called. The line up was textured and uncrowded. The sets were, however, coming in about waist high and although sectiony, ran on through to the inside. I pulled out my 6’7″ HPH, mid Simmons for my nephew, and my 7’3″ Malibu/SD hull for myself.
The feeling of carving down the line and cutting back with your feet about ten inches apart is nothing short of sublime. Lean it over, and it turns. Bury the rail, and it flows on through. It’s like that favorite 70’s slalom board, no kicktail, just carving. It makes all the other days of moving it around and out of the way in the bus totally worthwhile.
7’2 1/2″ volan, sage tint, g&p
NOW AVAILABLE AT BIRD’s SURF SHED
Having a nice trip to sunny San Diego. Got two boards under my belt so far. 7’2 1/2″ Malibu/SD hull in grey/green tinted volan, and a 7’1 1/2″ alien baby (egg/pintail hybrid) in chartreuse tint. Both will end up at Bird’s. Shaping an order tomorrow for Bryan and down to Avalon for Sunday/Monday to round out the trip.
Nice session this morning at Swami’s with an old pirate friend of mine, Jacek. Small, mushy, clean, perfect.
Dropped this hillbilly hull at Bird’s Surf Shed last week. Go check it out.
Well, another trip is on the books and after a nice trip to the high desert and a day at Avalon Tattoo hurting people, I finally had time to do three stock boards. They’re going through right now up on the hill at Bing.
7’2″ Malibu/SD hull, 6 oz volan, single box, sanded gloss
7’9 1/2″ hillbilly hull, rnd squash, blue grey tint, single box, gloss and polish
9’0″ EDB, rnd squash, burnt orange tint, single box, gloss and polish
A couple boards are in the works up on the hill right now. Both will have a single box, nice earth-tone resin tints, and full gloss and polish.
7’6″ hillbilly hull