“The real hook in surfing is, if that wave is good then the next wave has got to be better, and the next wave will be even better.”
-Mickey Muñoz
“The real hook in surfing is, if that wave is good then the next wave has got to be better, and the next wave will be even better.”
-Mickey Muñoz
In less than a week, I’ll be in San Diego again to do a bit of Avalon Tattoo, San Diego and finish up an order from Mitch’s North.
“Surfing is like a mirror. You can see yourself in the act of riding a wave. And your personality is style shows in the way you ride it, whether you’re a defensive person, or offensive, or awkward, or graceful.”
–Steve Pezman
A man’s worries are determined by the number of keys in his pockets. Surfers don’t have pockets.
-Ron Church
In the works is a new birthday board for Holly. I shaped a refined, slightly piggish nose rider for her and then delivered it into the hands of Sam Cody. He occupies a space up on the hill in the former Channin factory, currently Bing and Jacobs. Sam is truly a master of the craft and art of surfboard color. Whether resin or paint, Sam’s bag of tricks is bursting at the seams.
Here is what he has done for Holly’s nose rider. Remember this board is foam.
I was reminded Wednesday, why a keep a hull in the bus, even though I surf in San Diego. I got to Tourmaline kind of late (9:30 a.m.). There was no swell called. The line up was textured and uncrowded. The sets were, however, coming in about waist high and although sectiony, ran on through to the inside. I pulled out my 6’7″ HPH, mid Simmons for my nephew, and my 7’3″ Malibu/SD hull for myself.
The feeling of carving down the line and cutting back with your feet about ten inches apart is nothing short of sublime. Lean it over, and it turns. Bury the rail, and it flows on through. It’s like that favorite 70’s slalom board, no kicktail, just carving. It makes all the other days of moving it around and out of the way in the bus totally worthwhile.
7’2 1/2″ volan, sage tint, g&p
NOW AVAILABLE AT BIRD’s SURF SHED
Dropped this hillbilly hull at Bird’s Surf Shed last week. Go check it out.
Well, another trip is on the books and after a nice trip to the high desert and a day at Avalon Tattoo hurting people, I finally had time to do three stock boards. They’re going through right now up on the hill at Bing.
the list:
7’2″ Malibu/SD hull, 6 oz volan, single box, sanded gloss
7’9 1/2″ hillbilly hull, rnd squash, blue grey tint, single box, gloss and polish
9’0″ EDB, rnd squash, burnt orange tint, single box, gloss and polish
A couple boards are in the works up on the hill right now. Both will have a single box, nice earth-tone resin tints, and full gloss and polish.
7’6″ hillbilly hull
7’10 egg