A very fun winter board I made several years ago and had as a personal board for a long time. I let Jacek talk me out of it in a moment of weakness and have missed it ever since. Of course being the true friend that he is, he still lets me borrow it occasionally.
One of my personal heroes, Hadji, turns 91 this summer. He’s a Tourmaline local and I asked him if I could shoot some photos of him getting ready for our session on the day before he turned 89. We had a great session that day and I seem to recall him surfing on his 90th as well. I hope to get the chance to enjoy a few sessions with him this summer as well. It’s an honor to count him among my friends.
I remember, someone brought a monkey to the beach and, of course, it was the center of attention. A mutual friend was taking his turn bravely letting the monkey sit on his shoulder, when Hadji snuck up and dribbled warm rinse water onto the guys back. He jumped so fast, you’d have though a monkey was pissing on his back. We all fell out.
One of the earlier hillbilly hulls, shaped in 2004. I had shaped three boards from a 70s Frye egg that all surfed well but had too much tail width for anything approaching overhead. So I pulled in the tail and gave it more of a thinman nose and contoured the bottom with what is now my standard hillbilly hull bottom; belly-concave-double concave. There’s a lot of edge at the tail for release and a very flat rocker, especially down the center. This is easily the fasted board I’ve ever had and works from knee high Tourmaline to double overhead Cliffs.
Half way through an eleven foot nuuhiwa copy.
A board for everyday with an emphahsis on winter.
My beloved beast of a ride for a while. I have to say I’m much happier with my “68 VW bus. Smaller truck, smaller headaches. Room for a few boards and my tired body to lay down. It’s really all I need.
I’m gonna dole out images from my stash so check back often