I’m very pleased to announce that Mitch’s North will soon have a selection of my HPH/Simmons boards. If I could pick one shop in San Diego to place my boards, it would be Mitch’s. When I started shaping, it was Mitch that supplied everything I needed, no judgement, no hassles, no industry insider shenanigans. I’ll forever be grateful.
So stop in to Mitch’s North and see Loraine, Micah, Tony and the rest of the crew, for a legitimate old school surf shop experience.
One of the great pleasures on my life has been associating with a range of individuals that I have met at surf breaks. A particular group that were the core of culture at Tourmaline Canyon included Bud. He was one of a group encouraged to take up surfing again on later life by Skeeter Malcom. Captain Dan, Black Mac, Hadji, Billy,joe Gann among others. These guys were well into their 70’s and 80’s when I made Tourmaline my regular spot. They were a living treasure trove of surf lore, history, and practical knowledge. It was my great honor to have spent time with them.
Among other stories Bud told me were of him and his friends cutting the steps into the cliffs down by Garbage and Abs, and of learning to shape from Flippy Hoffman. He was generous with his stoke and his time. He will be missed.
Operating in a relative vacuum in the Midwest, mid to late 70’s
I was reminded Wednesday, why a keep a hull in the bus, even though I surf in San Diego. I got to Tourmaline kind of late (9:30 a.m.). There was no swell called. The line up was textured and uncrowded. The sets were, however, coming in about waist high and although sectiony, ran on through to the inside. I pulled out my 6’7″ HPH, mid Simmons for my nephew, and my 7’3″ Malibu/SD hull for myself.
The feeling of carving down the line and cutting back with your feet about ten inches apart is nothing short of sublime. Lean it over, and it turns. Bury the rail, and it flows on through. It’s like that favorite 70’s slalom board, no kicktail, just carving. It makes all the other days of moving it around and out of the way in the bus totally worthwhile.
7’2 1/2″ volan, sage tint, g&p
NOW AVAILABLE AT BIRD’s SURF SHED
Just dropped off a new board to Mission Surff in San Diego. I’ve called it the Alien Baby due to the weird blend of attributes of both my hillbilly hull and Malibu/SD hull. It’s in Chartreuse tint at 7’1 1/2″. Check it out for yourself.
Having a nice trip to sunny San Diego. Got two boards under my belt so far. 7’2 1/2″ Malibu/SD hull in grey/green tinted volan, and a 7’1 1/2″ alien baby (egg/pintail hybrid) in chartreuse tint. Both will end up at Bird’s. Shaping an order tomorrow for Bryan and down to Avalon for Sunday/Monday to round out the trip.
Nice session this morning at Swami’s with an old pirate friend of mine, Jacek. Small, mushy, clean, perfect.
Heading west next soon. I’ve got a lot of shaping to do (for me anyway). Some for Japan, one for Puerto Rico, and some for SD. Tattooing some groovy people at Avalon Tattoo as well. Gonna be busy!
Dropped this hillbilly hull at Bird’s Surf Shed last week. Go check it out.
Well, another trip is on the books and after a nice trip to the high desert and a day at Avalon Tattoo hurting people, I finally had time to do three stock boards. They’re going through right now up on the hill at Bing.
the list:
7’2″ Malibu/SD hull, 6 oz volan, single box, sanded gloss
7’9 1/2″ hillbilly hull, rnd squash, blue grey tint, single box, gloss and polish
9’0″ EDB, rnd squash, burnt orange tint, single box, gloss and polish
Thanks to everybody at 7th St. Gifts in Newport, Ky for having us play their customer appreciation day. A LOT of fun with Judge and Jury: Tom and Clay Judge, Aimee Huber, Carrie, and Ryan.
mast surfboards 