Made the 770 miles in a day and a half. Settled into our sweet little cottage in Avon and took a quick look around before dark. Stormy today but looks promising.
I shaped this board in ’04 along with a batch of three others. The color struck me so I kept it for myself (product developement and all). It soon became a favorite. I surfed the largest waves of my life on it. The most fun, however, were the days at Tourmaline when it was about waist high, and I’d sit with IRS Dave and Larry and pick off waves that most people thought you needed a long board for. So glidey. I caught SanO this past June and the day was just about perfect. Overhead on the outside with a nice south push at low tide. Sittin’ with a bunch of guys bitchin’ about there ten footers not being long enough. I had a great time on my 7’11”. It ain’t the size of your stick, it’s the amount of trim you get with it. Get it?
My beloved beast of a ride for a while. I have to say I’m much happier with my “68 VW bus. Smaller truck, smaller headaches. Room for a few boards and my tired body to lay down. It’s really all I need.
I’m gonna dole out images from my stash so check back often