Tag Archives: surf lifestyle

Demo, Demo, Demo!

aka the thumb
aka the thumb

Come on down to Del Mar, 15th st. the first morning of the show and demo some of my boards, along with a bunch of others, at the TransWorld SURF Sacred Craft Magical Morning Board Demo.

Mitch’s is the sh*#

A blank from Mitch's North and USBlanks
A blank from Mitch's North and USBlanks

Ordered blanks from Mitch’s North today. Just wanted to thank Mitch, Loraine and all the boys there for supporting all the small time shapers out there. They have, for many years, supplied everything needed for people to remain relatively self sufficient and build boards.

Now think about that for a second. Name another activity that relies on specialized equipment, one that has been commercialized, and then see if you can find a way to create that equipment yourself. Have you ever seen a homemade tennis racket? Homemade golf clubs? Maybe a homemade canoe, but you will pay several times as much. Now here is Mitch and a few other suppliers that enable individuals to create their own boards at comparable prices.

I’d like to thank Mitch’s, Mitch’s North, and all of the other suppliers that make this possible.

a beautiful lesson in humility

I was surfing Swami’s with my friend Riiko last week. As we walked down the steps to the beach we passed a city worker who was power washing the stairs. He stopped spraying to let us pass and I thanked him for letting us get by. But Riiko, as she walked by, said to him “Thank you for your hard work.”. I must say it was an example of a mind set that we have lost touch with in our culture. Namely, the appreciation of labor and a necessary job, performed well. To me it was a thing of beauty and a lesson I will not soon forget. Thank you Riiko and thank you to all the people who work hard to keep our public places working for us.

Hadji

One of my personal heroes, Hadji, turns 91 this summer. He’s a Tourmaline local and I asked him if I could shoot some photos of him getting ready for our session on the day before he turned 89. We had a great session that day and I seem to recall him surfing on his 90th as well. I hope to get the chance to enjoy a few sessions with him this summer as well. It’s an honor to count him among my friends.

I remember, someone brought a monkey to the beach and, of course, it was the center of attention. A mutual friend was taking his turn bravely letting the monkey sit on his shoulder, when Hadji snuck up and dribbled warm rinse water onto the guys back. He jumped so fast, you’d have though a monkey was pissing on his back. We all fell out.