Look closely and you should see a surfer going each way off this peak. Last night it was me and one other guy. Today there were about eight guys on it. Tomorrow it may be gone.
Another day in paradise
8 11 2009Comments : 1 Comment »
Tags: mast surfboards, outer banks, surfing
Categories : board porn, history, photos
It’s surreal!
7 11 2009Another stupid fun session. This time right out front of our cottage in Avon. Saw this peak this morning at high tide and figured I’d wait for low. SCOOOOOORE! as the soccer guys say. After years of San Diego crowds it’s hard to fully wrap your brain around miles of beaches with nobody on them.
I paddled out and caught a couple before one local guy pulled up in his truck (you can drive along the beach here) watched a wave and paddled out. Frankly I was glad for the company. People seem to be a little sketched about dusk in the water here, although no one says the S word. Shoulder to head high, water high 60′s, air 50′s. Like I’d died and gone to heaven. Definitely heavier than the reef breaks I so love in San Diego.
Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: mast surfboards, outer banks, surf, surfing
Categories : history, photos
what a difference a day makes
4 11 2009Still victory at sea around Avon. The wind came up overnight and turned a couple points east, so now even around the cape has a serious drift and a lot more texture (bigger too). Ask any surf shop owner what it’s looking like in the near future and they don’t look at swell models. They look at NOAA wind models.
Tomorrow is looking promising with the wind turning West, maybe NW, maybe SW. Full moon tonight and already cleaning up out front.
Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: mast surfboards, surf, surfing
Categories : photos
and all the angels sing
3 11 2009Avon’s pretty big and blown out. Headed past the lighthouse to Frisco pier and saw a small slice of heaven. Offshore and waist to chest high! I am so on it.
Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: mast surfboards, outer banks, surf, surfing
Categories : photos
Saying hello to the Atlantic
2 11 2009Made the 770 miles in a day and a half. Settled into our sweet little cottage in Avon and took a quick look around before dark. Stormy today but looks promising.
Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: mast surfboards, surf, surfing
Categories : history, photos
My beloved 7’11″
7 07 2009
an alltime favorite
I shaped this board in ’04 along with a batch of three others. The color struck me so I kept it for myself (product developement and all). It soon became a favorite. I surfed the largest waves of my life on it. The most fun, however, were the days at Tourmaline when it was about waist high, and I’d sit with IRS Dave and Larry and pick off waves that most people thought you needed a long board for. So glidey. I caught SanO this past June and the day was just about perfect. Overhead on the outside with a nice south push at low tide. Sittin’ with a bunch of guys bitchin’ about there ten footers not being long enough. I had a great time on my 7’11″. It ain’t the size of your stick, it’s the amount of trim you get with it. Get it?
Comments : 4 Comments »
Tags: mast surfboards, photography, surf truck, surfboard shaper, surfing
Categories : board porn, design, history, photos, Uncategorized
I’ll keep ‘em coming
29 05 2009My beloved beast of a ride for a while. I have to say I’m much happier with my “68 VW bus. Smaller truck, smaller headaches. Room for a few boards and my tired body to lay down. It’s really all I need.
-
- tow in trucking
-
- the best space ever
Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: surf truck, surfboard, surfing
Categories : Uncategorized
images
27 05 2009I’m gonna dole out images from my stash so check back often
Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: mast surfboards, photography, shaper, surfboard, surfing
Categories : board porn, history, photos, Uncategorized
