off time

1 10 2011

Having a great trip. Up the coast to Mendo for an amazing gathering of the “wee folk”, the “good neighbors”, elves or whatever at the wedding of our good friends Chris and Rachel. Then on to gold rush country for my brother’s family, then on to Joshua Tree for my wife’s Mother’s and her sweet man.

Along the way we’ve been amazed and educated by good wine makers, enthralled by faerie, spanked by the Pacific, tested by a forty three year old vehicle and had a wonderful time. Back to Avalon this week and ready for Halloween (and our 18th wedding anniversary) in Kentucky. See you wherever.

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quote of the week

14 08 2011

“I just need a good wave….., but it needs to be a right”

“Kneeboard Steve”

On how to treat the severe back pain he was experiencing at the time.





“the Rincon of Canada”

22 11 2010

Sent to me by my good friend Rob, somewhere in Vancouver.





Holly’s HPH on John Cherry’s site!

1 10 2010

Thanks John for the kind words and amazing woodwork. And thank you holly for the lovely photos.

click here!





New Friends

21 08 2010

Dropped off a couple boards with my new friends Tyler and Jim at Corduroy in Portland, Maine. What a cool place. Definitely check them out if you’re in the area or hit corduroy-Portland, Maine





Hadji: a life well lived

10 06 2010

I just heard today that one of my personal heroes has passed. After suffering a massive stroke last week, Hadji apparently passed a few days ago. I was fortunate to count him among my friends and have to say, he was a constant inspiration.

Hadji was one member of a crew, inspired by Skeeter, to return to surfing later in life. The crew, including Billy Goldsmith, Captain Dan, Black Mac, Bud Powell, Ron St. John, Larry Gordon, IRS Dave, John Bishop, Inge, Mary Helen and Dave Ish, and a host of others I’m not remembering at the moment, were always a constant presence at Tourmaline in the mornings. They were a concrete link to the history of surfing and ocean lifestyle in San Diego.

Hadji will always embody the positive attitude and joy that surfing brings to life. I had the honor and pleasure of sharing many sessions with him and the rest of the boys and will treasure the memories forever.





Frisco Pier Redux

17 01 2010
nice day OBX

offshore and warmish/November '09

Just reminiscing on a very nice little session in North Carolina last November.





Mahalo Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre

5 01 2010

Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre Christmas Party

I would like to extend my gratitude to my friend Kai for his invitation to join the Hawaiian Surf Club of San Onofre for their Christmas party. The event was held at the Surfing Heritage Foundation and was a nice family style get together. Great company, good food and music and a warm holiday vibe.

with Paul Strauch Jr.

I had the honor and pleasure of meeting Paul Strauch Jr. there. Surrounded by all of the historic boards there and then talking to Paul about them, I could not help feeling the flow of surf history, past to present. Quite a treat.





Double barrel

14 11 2009

Look carefully (these are phone pictures, sorry) and you will see guys getting covered up on both sides of this peak. All of this of course is gone for now with Ida having come through. Actually, in the words of a nice local bookseller, “it hasn’t disappeared, it’s just not on your property any longer.” They don’t say erosion here. The word is “migration”.





Another day in paradise

8 11 2009

Look closely and you should see a surfer going each way off this peak. Last night it was me and one other guy. Today there were about eight guys on it. Tomorrow it may be gone.








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