Blue Magazine, Japan

28 11 2011

I’d like to thank Takashi, Junko, and Blue Magazine for including me in the latest issue of their beautiful publication.

20111128-134113.jpg





Guru Shaper

24 05 2011

My good friend Rob Yuen’s shaper Steve Coletta, on a go out at Santa Cruz.

20110524-113717.jpg





experimentation

24 05 2011

With a nudge from Matt Calvani, I’ve moved into a new approach to shaping. One of a kind, eyeball specials. Not a lot of measuring, just looking, feeling and creating. Pretty exciting. Just don’t ask me to make another one just like it. These are truly one of a kind.

20110507-075328.jpg





Wing swallowtail

9 05 2011

New shape on the way. One of one.

20110508-103525.jpg

20110508-103546.jpg





back in the saddle again

6 05 2011

One shape down. Sitting in the blue bus having a beer and relaxing. Soon I’ll be reading myself to sleep. Hopefully find some surf in the morning, stop at Mitch’s North for some fins (John always seems to fins cool fins), and back up to the hill for another shape. Today I actually started to shake off the gloom of the rainiest April in recorded weather history of the Ohio river valley. Nothing like a couple good surf sessions with friends to cheer a body up.

20110506-111635.jpg





Hullls

31 01 2011

displacement or planing?

I see a lot of traffic on the net these days looking for hulls. I’m am by no means an expert on surfboard design, but I am an avid student of design and have researched a fair amount. Here is some of what I’ve learned.

Although the recent fascination with hulls has centered around the Greg Liddle “modified transitional displacement hulls”, any surfboard can be considered a hull. There are displacement hulls, planing hulls and as usually is the case, some variant of the two.

As soon as you put an edge at the tail of your board you have created a planing hull. The very nature of the release provided by that edge, by definition puts that board into planing mode. It the edge were left soft and round, you still have a displacement hull. Now whether it is a good one of either type is another matter.

Have you ever seen the old footage of guys towing behind motor boats on their logs? As soon as they get going, the tail end of the board starts submarining and they can literally walk to the nose and go. This demonstrates a the principle of displacement hull theory. A displacement hull has a theoretical hull speed, above which the water actually sucks the hull deeper into the water (I’m simplifying here). Take a sailboat or any other displacement hull and tow it. At anything above the theoretical hull speed, the boat begins to submarine, actually being pulled deeper into the water. Old, soft edged boards are the same, as are any true displacement hulls being produced today. As soon as you put an edge at the tail, you release the water and the board begins to plane. The modern surfboard, most “hulls” included, balance these principles to achieve the desired effect or feel.

Now I’m sure I’ll get some flak for this, but displacement hulls, by their very nature, are not as fast as planing hulls. They may “feel” faster in a section, but without the release, they are constantly dragging more than a sharp edged board would. Now this is not a bad thing. The feeling of a well balance hull is one of the great pleasures of surfing that most people fail to credit. Surfing one well takes a different approach, especially if you are stepping off a thruster. Single fin riders tend to have an easier time.

Another thing I’ll take flak for, and I’m saying it anyway, Greg Liddle did not invent the displacement hull surfboard. He refined it to an amazing degree, made it work in a short package, championing it when it was completely against the trends of the time, but have you ever seen a Weber Foil? Have you ever really looked at almost any board before the mid sixties? All displacement hulls, although arguably not “modified transitional displacement hulls”, whatever that means. Please don’t take this as me dissing Greg Liddle. On the contrary, I think his boards are brilliant and have been a huge design influence for me. It’s just I get a little frustrated when I here people talk about hull this and hull that, without any understanding of what a hull is.

Thanks

 





Spy Photo! Weapons of mast destruction.

19 01 2011

Sources placed inside the factory have risked all to provide us with this sneak peak of a mast HPH in progress. Reported to be just beyond 8’2″, this sled will be watched carefully and new information will be posted when available. Resin engineer, Jorge, reportedly pulled out all stops.





HPH speedster!

21 09 2010

Now available at Surfindian in beautiful Pacific Beach, CA





Back In the Saddle Again

4 09 2010

Back up on the hill. Enjoying what is apparently the last days of the Channin era. Looks like Bing is taking the helm soon. It’s been a real pleasure and honor.





Hillbilly hullicious

11 08 2010

Came across these photos and put them up just because I like them.








Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.